库存色销售Stock Color Operation
22种面料/224种颜色 22Materials/224colors
DAIICHI ORIMONO EPISODE FILE #02
挑战密度与透气性并存的新领域
An unreached harmony of high-density and air-transmitting
一次偶然的相遇、给拥有DICROS的我们带来了转机。
我们接到了美国户外服饰生产商巴塔哥尼亚公司的面料开发委托。这件事当然不会简单、苛刻的条件摆在了我们的面前。涤纶100%、弹性15%以上、透气性小于3cc/cm2、而且还必须考虑到肌肤触感。
一开始、我们使用日本国内各家合成纤维生产商拥有的现成弹力纱(伸缩纱)产品进行了测试。但是因为织物本身的密度很高、无论是平织还是斜织都完全不具备弹性。接着、我们稍稍降低密度进行了测试。结果斜织的表现好于平织。尤其是2/2斜纹表现出一些弹性、当然与期望相比还相去甚远。
纱线开发历经了多次失败和挫折。在此过程中、我们发现与共轭*型弹力纱相比、高卷曲(强度收缩)的原纱的高密度织物更能获得弹性。
于是我们立即使用高卷曲原纱线以2/2斜纹组织进行了开发。但是、弹性与透气性的平衡极难掌握。密度低则弹性好、但透气性会过高。反之、密度高则透气性低、但是弹性差。
解决方法只有一个、就是一根根提高密度的原始方法。
因为每次都必须等待染色加工的结果、所以需要大量时间。要求有耐心、才能找出适当的密度。
然后通过进一步的开发、我们还开发出弹性更高的共轭型原纱并两者并用。通过积累经验、在一定程度范围内可以确定密度、但最终还是要取决于实证开发。
*共轭:纺纱时将至少两种不同成分贴在一起但不混合、利用左右的热收缩率之差、通过热处理得到有卷曲性(纤维收缩)的合成纤维。
The encounter with Patagonia was our turning point.
We received a requested for a development of a special fabric from Patagonia, an outdoor apparel maker in the U.S. That was not an easy request, with a strict demand in specification: 100% made of Polyester, more than 15% of stretch, and air-permeability of less than 3cc/cm2 sec. In addition to the restricted specification, comfortable hand-feel was also another parameter to be included.
At first, we tested with a stretch yarn of a domestic synthetic-yarn maker, but its woven fabric did not stretch at all woven in ultra-high density fabric of any designs. Among them all, 2/2 twill fabric showed a better result. However, that was not even close to what we had aimed at.
“We have no choice but develop our own yarn to give its fabric enough stretch”
We were searching for the ‘right’ yarn through trials and errors.
Along the research, we discovered that, for a ultra high-dense fabric like ours, yarns of frizzy type would work better and give more stretch than conjugate type of stretch yarn.
We then jump onto development of 2/2 twill fabric with woven with frizzy yarn.
But we hit another ceiling: air-permeability and stretch are two opposite features in a woven fabric.
When reducing density, a fabric stretches out more but air-permeability is too high, and when packing yarns for higher density, a fabric transmit air in proper amount but it does not stretch enough.
We concluded that our only solution to find the ‘right’ balance of density and stretch was to test all the fabrics
of all possible densities. We increased yarn numbers one by one. It consumed unimaginable amount of time
and patience. Every test fabric was woven, dyed and examined for its performance. Then the ‘right’ density was found.
Further development with new type of conjugate yarns, with better stretch performance, was carried on. Now the both type of fabrics are in concurrence.
With our accumulated knowledge and techniques, we could make a rough assumption for an optimal density. Nevertheless, experiment and demonstration are still the final decision-makers for our innovations.
* Conjugate yarn: a type of synthetic yarns which consist of two types or more of different composition that are put together, not mixed, and spanned, then heated to create frizzy appearance created by different heat-contraction properties.